First day in Ireland

Grafton St Flower stand



Time for a cold one!!

 Tues Day 1

Well, we’re off.  A little background for our trip to Ireland.  Mary has been researching Cronin family genealogy for the past 4 years and thought she had enough info to go over and visit some of the hometowns of relatives.   Through her research, she found out that the O’Leary’s of Ireland were having the 15^th annual reunion in Inchigeelagh which is where our O’Leary connection lived.  All 4 of our mother’s grandparents had immigrated to Massachusetts in the late 1800’s.  Mary was also able to find the names of each of the grandparents’ parents.  We set up an itinerary to visit each hometown of the 4 grandparents.  Three are located in County Cork and one in County Kerry.  Along the way we tried to incorporate touristy places also.  Carolyn and Shannon never pass up a trip so agreed to accompany Mary.  They flew up from Florida and all three flew out of Boston on a six hour direct flight.  The flight which left at 6 p.m. and arrived at 5 a.m. turned out to be very comfortable.  We got our rental car and headed to Buswell’s Hotel in Dublin.  It was located in a great area in the middle of all the sites.  We never had to get in the car while touring 2 days in Dublin.  We checked in the hotel at 7 a.m. and slept till about 1 p.m. and all of us felt rested.  We headed out and walked around Dublin for a couple hours.  More detailed info tomorrow.

Day 2

Wed 9/15 – We woke to the sound of a bustling city.  Dublin is a blur of cars and people.  Fortunately, it has also earned a reputation for fresh scones, a reputation it deserves.  We had raspberry scones and lattes to fortify ourselves for the day ahead.  The National Library was in walking distance of Buswell’s Hotel, so we started there.  Mary had a list of names we needed to find, so we all sat at a microfiche machine and went to work.  After 4 hrs we made a few finds that confirmed some info from the Ireland records. We then headed out for an afternoon walk in Dublin.  Our first stop was Trinity College.  It was commissioned by Queen Elizabeth and established as an educational center for Protestants.  Not only is the University still flourishing, it is home to one of the oldest books in Western Civilization, the Book of Kells.  It also houses one of the finest libraries in the western world. 

We continued to St. Stephen’s Greens.  It is a park in the center of the city where one can escape the commotion and walk beside a lake with swans, ducks and seagulls.  This is a cut through to get to the road which led to St. Patrick’s Cathedral.  While the Irish are without a doubt the friendliest and most welcoming people on planet earth, we learned that one must be careful about making eye contact because this can be construed as an invitation to talk.  The Irish are also the most social people on the planet.  Every docent in the church wanted to boast of their rich history.  Shannon mentioned that she was interested in Celtic crosses and was immediately escorted to the cemetery that was not open to the public.  The guide said that while many were buried there, the majority of the interred were inside the cathedral! 

Trinity College



Stephen's Green




St Patrick's Cathedral




Inside St Patrick's Cathedral



Around 6 p.m. starved and in the mood for celebrating our discovery in the Archives, we walked to the famous O’Neal’s Restaurant/Pub.  They have what is called a carvery which means they cook three big chunks of meat every day and carve from them.  They serve plates with veggies (potatoes cooked every way imaginable) and a salad.  We learned about a beer called Blarney Blonde and were instant fans.  Apparently there are three kinds of beer; lager which is light (Bud, Miller etc.), Stout which is red (Killians), and Ale which is dark (classic Guiness).   Four pints later, the Irish team went on a buying frenzy.  We're thinking beer stimulates the Irish economy in more ways than one!

Day 3

Brittas Bay Beach, Wicklow

Johnson Castle



Killmore Quay



Hook Head Lighhouse



countryside



Fri  9/17  Today we packed the car then headed  to get coffee and raspberry scones.  The Irish scones are like no other.   We have got to get the recipe for them and try to make them for the folks at home.  We headed  back to  the car and began our harrowing ride through Dublin at rush hour.  We survived the ordeal and got on the highway to Brittas Bay, just south of Wicklow.  This stop was one of Maggie’s (Maureen’s roommate) recommendations.  It lived up to its reputation.  We walked a sandy beach, climbed the dunes and collected rocks  and shells.  We also made an effort to take a lot of photos for Maggie.

Johnson Castle Gardens was next on our itinerary.  It was . . . well a castle and gardens.  The gardens were immaculate and the castle itself was built in the early 1800’s.  The grounds featured peacocks.  We walked around about an hour, shooting the castle from different angles and enjoying the fine weather and beauty of the place.  We went to the wall garden and had to admire what was grown there.  There were pears growing up the walls, sunflowers and various colored flowers.  We also chatted several times with a pair of Irish couples and no doubt we were the topic of their dinner conversation. 

We left the parking lot and headed to Killmore Quay, (pronounced key) a quaint fishing town with white houses and thatched roofs.   It smelled like a typical New England village.  By this time we were pretty hungry and wound up at the Silver Fox.  White tablecloths and empty, it was perfect.   Before we left, Shannon bought her Mom a beautiful pumpkin-colored scarf.  We also took some good photos.

Brittas Bay Beach



Johnson Castle grounds



In the dungeon



Johnson Castle Watchtower

 Hook Head Peninsula was our next destination.  As we wound around tight curves and down narrow roads, we stopped to photograph a burned out church and cemetery.  At the end of the road lay our destination, the Hook Head Lighthouse, which is one of the oldest in the world.  Perched on a dark and rocky shore, the facility was finally automated in 1996.  

Back on the road to Ballyhack to see the castle there.  It is one of the oldest in the country but was closed for the season.  We found a pipe-smoking gent working on a fishing boat and couldn’t resist a candid pic.  We hopped in the car and took the ferry in Arthurstown to avoid a 45 minute drive north of the channel.  Anything to avoid extra driving.  We headed to Dungarvan to stay at Barnawee B & B.  It proved to be a wonderful place to stay.  It is newer home overlooking a bay with a view of the bay as far as you can see.  The proprietors were kind and helpful, and we woke to the smell of a wonderful breakfast. 

Day 4

Friday  9/17  Woke early this a.m. to the sound of a horse whinnying.  We were greeted in the dining room by our B & B host, a rosy-cheeked, Michelle Barnawee .    It wasn’t even 8 a.m. and she had already cooked breakfast for several other guests and driven her three little ones to school.  Without missing a beat, she took our b’fast order and explained that this was her family’s territory; they owned several houses (including the horse’s house).  There is a real sense of family and community everywhere we go.  We also learned that Irish people prefer tea and woe to those who drink coffee . . . for it is instant.

Our first destination was a town called Fermoy located in County Cork 32 miles to the south of the B & B.  Great  Grandmother  Margaret  O’Keefe was born and raised  here.     Margaret is Mary Florence Mahoney’s mother (mother of the 17 Cronin children from Arlington, MA).  She immigrated to America in 1887 to Arlington, MA where she married Daniel  Mahoney  (info on Daniel on Blog 7).   Margaret and Daniel had 9 children (William, Helen, Anna, Mary Florence, Alice, Joseph, John, Robert and Marion).

 We talked to a knowledgeable gentleman about the history of the O’Keefe family who apparently were a well known family in Fermoy.   We checked several cemeteries but were unable to locate Margaret’s parents (William O’Keefe and Johanna O’Neil).  Mary and Carolyn both found very nice Claddaugh rings.   We learned what street the O’Keefe’s  lived on and we drove up it before we left Fermoy and headed to St. Nicholas’s Cathedral to speak with the priest.  A wedding was in progress, so we weren’t able to talk with the priest but got some photos of the church where Margaret would have worshipped and been baptized.

With Fermoy in the rearview, we headed to the Blarney Castle.  Visitors are required to stop at the Blarney Castle and support the local economy by  kissing the stone, drinking a pint, buying Irish souvenirs etc.  We gave it our all!  After climbing an impossibly narrow stone staircase, we stood at the top of the castle.  The Irish team kissed the stone (Shannon blew it a kiss because the thought of all those germs made her  swoon).  We took some great shots.   Afterwards, we found a souvenir shop and bought t-shirts and candy. 

Our next destination was Inchigeelagh where the O’Leary family reunion is held annually.  Carolyn set the GPS and we were off.  We reached the outskirts of the city around 5:30, and Mary asked if we would mind going a few more miles to locate the Cronin family house in Gurteenflugh.   This was the home of Cornelius Cronin.  Cornelius is the father of John Cronin (father of the 17 Cronin children from Arlington, MA).   Cornelius immigrated to America in 1876 and met and  married Nora Cronin (yes, same last name).  Cornelius and Nora had 6 children Mary, John, Frances, Cornelius, Margaret and Veronica. Armed with an address from the 1911 census,  we gingerly made our way down roads that are used primarily by cattle and sheep.  But there on the right, was a dilapidated stone house that fit the description.   It is now owned by a local who has left it untouched.  We must mention that our connection to the O’Leary family lies in this house.  Cornelius’s parents names were Patrick Cronin and Norry O’Leary. 

Next, we headed to  Creedon’s Hotel to check in for the reunion.   After navigating through a busy dining room, we  found someone who appeared to be in charge.  A big man with a bigger smile stood standing behind the bar.  He said to Shannon, “Are you an O’Leary?”  To which she replied, “I’m not an O’Leary; I’m not Catholic; I’m not even Irish.”  He didn’t waiver but came around from behind the bar and put his arm over her shoulder and said, “I’m Joe Creedon and you’re very welcome.  This weekend you’re an honorary O’Leary.”  He then proceeded to lead us through the kitchen and pointed up the stairs to our room.  When we think of Ireland, we will always think of Joe Creedon’s smiling face.  

After getting situated in our rooms, we went down to a meet-and-greet.  The host, Eugene O’Leary welcomed everyone and made two important announcements.  First, the clan has an opportunity to buy their castle back!  The O’Leary Castle is up for sale and descendants were asked for suggestions on how to return it to the family.  The second announcement was a suggestion to hold the next reunion in Boston!  Joe ended the meeting by singing a traditional Gaelic song.   

Locals began to trickle into the pub.  They were followed by several musicians, fiddlers, keyboard and percussion.  They broke into music and song, clearly they were all regulars there at Creedon’s.

We climbed the stairs to bed, our ears ringing with fiddle music and the foreign Gaelic tongue spilling out of the pub below.



Barnawee B & B



Dungarvan bridge



Fermoy bridge




Old cemetary and chapel





Cronin Gurteenflugh home



Day 5

Sat  9/18  Had a traditional Irish b’fast without the black pudding (pork blood ewwww).   The eggs, sausage and bacon are great to get the day started.  The O’Leary clan reunion begins with a lecture from a local historian who has researched burial rituals of the Irish.  We learn about the superstitions, customs, wakes, supernatural beliefs and lamenting process.  The talk was absolutely fascinating and revealed so much about the Irish people.  It ended with a CD recording of a Gaelic lament.  An old man mourns his daughter who hasn’t died but has left for the U.S.  He now has no one to care for him, and he knows his last days will be difficult.   On that note, we boarded a bus for Manning’s Emporium, a traditional outdoor restaurant.  It serves locally produced food from goat cheese to bread, fruit, meats and wine.  The owner’s energy was half the fun.  We had the pleasure of sitting with Peter O’Leary one of the most knowledgeable people in attendance on local history. 

The next stop was the Drumbeg Stone Circle built around 945 b.c..  The circle is perched on a high plain surrounded by rich green fields.  It overlooks the ocean.  In summary, the builders picked the location based on this view and the position of the sun.  The entry stones are arranged to frame the sun as it sets during the winter solstice.  The history of this island is rich beyond words.

We returned to Creedon’s and instead of dressing for the big O’Leary dinner, we headed down the street to search the cemetery for Cronin remains.  In particular Pat Cronin and Norry O’Leary.   We saw the old remains of the church where they were married in January 1839.  We did find a Cronin stone; based on the name and place he was definitely a relative. 

 Dressed in our finest (which turned out to be our only clean clothes) we headed down to join the O’Learys from the outlying areas.  Carolyn and I walked into the dining area and noticed a smiling couple sitting on the sofa.   We said hello and the gentleman got up to properly introduce himself and his wife.  It turns out that he has been coming for years to these reunions to see if any of his O’Leary relatives will show up!   He asked how we were related to the O’Learys and when we informed him our O’Leary link was Nora O’Leary up in Gurteenflugh, his eyes lit up, and he said he was related to the O’Leary in that home also.  This was very exciting and we proceeded to get lots of info from here about the Cronins and O’Learys from Gurteenflugh.  A fun evening was had by all.

Creedon's Hotel



O'Leary Reunion photo



Drumbeg Stone Circle

countryside

Tom O'Leary/Joe Creedon

Killarney National Park

Day 6



St Finn Barr's Chapel



St Finn Barr's Chapel

Beara Peninsula

Beara Peninsula

Beara Peninsula

Sun  9/19  Packed the car and headed southwest to the Beara Peninsula.  Enroute, we stopped in Bantry hoping to find some info on Nora Cronin (Cornelius' wife).  Bantry is less than an hour from Inchigeelagh so we suspect that Cornelius and Nora may have known each other before they each separately immigrated to America and then met in Arlington, MA.  On the way, we stopped in Gougane  Barra to visit St Finn Barr’s chapel.  St Finn Barr was the founder and patron of the city and Diocese of Cork.  It is a must see if visiting this area.  On the grounds is a Cronin’s Café and Bar.  In the gift shop we made a few purchases; Mary, never missing an opportunity, spoke up and asked if there were any Cronins in the area.  The shop keep said to go next door where Breda  Cronin was working.  Turns out she knew Cronins who are related to the Cronins up in Gurteenflugh.  Apparently, three brothers who live in Macroom are related, so Mary will try to contact them to get more info.   The stop proved valuable by providing another solid lead in the search for direct family link.  Of course no day would be complete without a tour of a cemetery, so we found a promising one just as it started to rain.   In particular, we were looking for Francis Cronin and Ellen Jane Wren who were Nora’s parents.  No luck because most of the old stones can hardly be read.  We hit the road again and continued in the direction of the Beara Peninsula.  The coastline runs up on ridges then down to seaside villages.  Shannon  saw a great boat shot and pulled off.  Carolyn and Mary got out while Shannon  was down on the rocks and talked to a local fisherman, Michael.  It seems that a lens in Carolyn’s sunglasses popped out and she looked like an escapee from a local asylum.  Michael was visibly confused while Mary was crying with laughter.  After  hours of driving, we found our next B & B in Kenmare. 

Day 7 & 8

Mon  9/20   Got up and had our full Irish breakfast as they call it before heading out for our last day in Ireland.   Our first destination was Brosna,  home to Daniel Mahoney (Mary Florence Cronin’s father).   Daniel immigrated to America in 1886.  The route took us part way around the Ring of Kerry.  The views here are some of the most spectacular in Ireland.  We spent 2-3 hours around Brosna visiting areas where Daniel  was raised.  Daniel’s parents were Patrick Mahoney and Ellen Downey of Duagh.  We met up with several local workers who said that all the Mahoneys from the area have moved on .  Finally, it was time to head toward Dublin to put us in striking distance of the airport and our flight home tomorrow.  After dinner and a pint at the Hibernian, we settled into our room at Maldron's Hotel in Portlaoise.  We were all exhausted from the driving around .  

Tues  9/21   Today is our last day in Ireland.  We all hate to leave and agreed that a return trip is in order.  The countryside is so beautiful and cannot be captured in photos alone.  When you stand on a hillside and turn 360 degrees, the vision is breathtaking.  Green rolling hills, cows and sheep, and blue ocean water are what you can expect to see.  The flight home was uneventful and it was good to be back.  A few final thoughts:

Try to get at least 50 Euros for bus fare, cab or coffee before you leave home the U.S..  The exchange rate at the airport is not good at all; when in Ireland your first stop should be to a local bank.  The U.S. Dollar has a horrible value right now, and for each dollar we got .74 euro. 

Since Ireland drives on the opposite side of the road consider renting an automatic which is not readily available.  It is already difficult enough to stay on the left side of the road and shifting with the wrong hand would make it doubly hard.  Shannon did all of the driving and the person sitting in the front seat had to pay attention at all times and remind her to stay on the left.  That warning was put into play several times!!!!  Don't even think about getting on the road without a GPS.  It is expensive but will save in time and patience down the road!

The B&B’s were terrific. I highly recommend going that route when possible.  Easier to check in, more comfortable and roomy.  Plus a homemade breakfast!!

Ring of Kerry

Killarney church

Ring of Kerry cemetary

Mary getting info from locals in Brosna