Ireland 2010: Day 4

Friday 9/17 Woke early this a.m. to the sound of a horse whinnying. We were greeted in the dining room by our B & B host, a rosy-cheeked, Michelle Barnawee . It wasn’t even 8 a.m. and she had already cooked breakfast for several other guests and driven her three little ones to school. Without missing a beat, she took our b’fast order and explained that this was her family’s territory; they owned several houses (including the horse’s house). There is a real sense of family and community everywhere we go. We also learned that Irish people prefer tea and woe to those who drink coffee . . . for it is instant.

Our first destination was a town called Fermoy located in County Cork 32 miles to the south of the B & B. Great Grandmother Margaret O’Keefe was born and raised here. Margaret is Mary Florence Mahoney’s mother (mother of the 17 Cronin children from Arlington, MA). She immigrated to America in 1887 to Arlington, MA where she married Daniel Mahoney (info on Daniel on Blog 7). Margaret and Daniel had 9 children (William, Helen, Anna, Mary Florence, Alice, Joseph, John, Robert and Marion).

We talked to a knowledgeable gentleman about the history of the O’Keefe family who apparently were a well known family in Fermoy. We checked several cemeteries but were unable to locate Margaret’s parents (William O’Keefe and Johanna O’Neil). Mary and Carolyn both found very nice Claddaugh rings. We learned what street the O’Keefe’s lived on and we drove up it before we left Fermoy and headed to St. Nicholas’s Cathedral to speak with the priest. A wedding was in progress, so we weren’t able to talk with the priest but got some photos of the church where Margaret would have worshipped and been baptized.

With Fermoy in the rearview, we headed to the Blarney Castle. Visitors are required to stop at the Blarney Castle and support the local economy by kissing the stone, drinking a pint, buying Irish souvenirs etc. We gave it our all! After climbing an impossibly narrow stone staircase, we stood at the top of the castle. The Irish team kissed the stone (Shannon blew it a kiss because the thought of all those germs made her swoon). We took some great shots. Afterwards, we found a souvenir shop and bought t-shirts and candy.

Our next destination was Inchigeelagh where the O’Leary family reunion is held annually. Carolyn set the GPS and we were off. We reached the outskirts of the city around 5:30, and Mary asked if we would mind going a few more miles to locate the Cronin family house in Gurteenflugh. This was the home of Cornelius Cronin. Cornelius is the father of John Cronin (father of the 17 Cronin children from Arlington, MA). Cornelius immigrated to America in 1876 and met and married Nora Cronin (yes, same last name). Cornelius and Nora had 6 children Mary, John, Frances, Cornelius, Margaret and Veronica. Armed with an address from the 1911 census, we gingerly made our way down roads that are used primarily by cattle and sheep. But there on the right, was a dilapidated stone house that fit the description. It is now owned by a local who has left it untouched. We must mention that our connection to the O’Leary family lies in this house. Cornelius’s parents names were Patrick Cronin and Norry O’Leary.

Next, we headed to Creedon’s Hotel to check in for the reunion. After navigating through a busy dining room, we found someone who appeared to be in charge. A big man with a bigger smile stood standing behind the bar. He said to Shannon, “Are you an O’Leary?” To which she replied, “I’m not an O’Leary; I’m not Catholic; I’m not even Irish.” He didn’t waiver but came around from behind the bar and put his arm over her shoulder and said, “I’m Joe Creedon and you’re very welcome. This weekend you’re an honorary O’Leary.” He then proceeded to lead us through the kitchen and pointed up the stairs to our room. When we think of Ireland, we will always think of Joe Creedon’s smiling face.

After getting situated in our rooms, we went down to a meet-and-greet. The host, Eugene O’Leary welcomed everyone and made two important announcements. First, the clan has an opportunity to buy their castle back! The O’Leary Castle is up for sale and descendants were asked for suggestions on how to return it to the family. The second announcement was a suggestion to hold the next reunion in Boston! Joe ended the meeting by singing a traditional Gaelic song.

Locals began to trickle into the pub. They were followed by several musicians, fiddlers, keyboard and percussion. They broke into music and song, clearly they were all regulars there at Creedon’s.

We climbed the stairs to bed, our ears ringing with fiddle music and the foreign Gaelic tongue spilling out of the pub below.